Athens, Greece: Three Stays Later, Here's What We Actually Think
Athens holds a strange place in our hearts. It’s one of the few cities we’ve returned to multiple times — first in 2015 for a month, then summer 2022 for 85 days, and again in late 2023 for another 85-day stretch. Each time, the city has changed. Each time, we’ve felt a little more at home.
The Cost Reality
Let’s get this out of the way: Athens is not cheap anymore. Our last apartment in Cholargos through Blueground cost us over 100 EUR per night. Even in 2022, our Blue Ground place near Filolaou was running similar rates. This is the biggest change from our first visit in 2015, when we paid $942 for an entire month on Airbnb.
| Category | Cost (EUR) |
|---|---|
| Apartment | 1,200-1,500 |
| Groceries | 300-350 |
| Dining out | 250-300 |
| Transport | 40-60 |
| Coffee / cafes | 80-100 |
| Total | ~2,000-2,300 |
Coffee culture is serious in Athens. Budget accordingly — you’ll want 2-3 freddos a day once summer hits.
LGBTQ+ Life
Athens is the most LGBTQ+-friendly city in the Balkans/Eastern Mediterranean by a wide margin. The Gazi district has visible queer nightlife. Greece legalized same-sex civil unions in 2015 and same-sex marriage in 2024. We’ve never once felt uncomfortable being openly together here.
The Athens Pride parade is a real event, not a corporate afterthought. It’s one of the places where we genuinely feel like we can relax and be ourselves.
What Makes It Worth It
- History that hits different when you live there: Walking past the Parthenon on your morning coffee run never gets old
- The food: Greek cuisine is underrated. Fresh fish, incredible salads, tavernas where the owner brings you free dessert
- The pace: Athens moves slower than Western European capitals. People sit at cafes for hours. Nobody rushes
- The light: There’s something about Attic light that makes everything look better. It’s real — artists have been saying it for centuries
What’s Annoying
- Summer heat: July and August are brutal. 40°C days with no air conditioning in older buildings
- Noise: Athens is loud. Motorcycles, construction, nightlife — earplugs are essential
- Bureaucracy: If you need to deal with any Greek government office, pack your patience
- Graffiti: It’s everywhere. Some people find it charming. After a while, it just looks messy
The Schengen Factor
Greece is a Schengen country, so your 90/180 clock is ticking. We’ve always maxed out our 85-90 days here before jumping to a non-Schengen country (usually Albania — it’s a short, cheap flight on Aegean Airlines). Plan your calendar carefully.
Bottom Line
Athens is one of our favorite cities in the world, but it’s not the budget option it used to be. Come for the culture, the food, and the LGBTQ+ friendliness. Just know that you’ll pay Western European prices with Balkan infrastructure.